Yet another Single Channel Encoder

[MaxZ]

Right, thanks Martin.

Max.

[MaxZ]

Re-reading the instructions; the info on how to connect the programming cable is all there, I missed it and should not have been moaning about it......

On the 3-pos switch, I guess a self-centering toggle switch is best, but I have been looking at some examples offered by our chinese friends, and the descriptions are not very helpful. Any recommendations?
What if I replaced the switch with dual push buttons, any risk when I inadvertently push both simultaneously?

Cheers,
Max.

[Martin]

A lot of us have used modified 'guitar switches' as self-centring two-way toggle switches. These are great for reed set replicas and similar.

You have to modify the switches a little to make them work the way we want, but this is just a matter of undoing some bolts, taking the switch apart, bending the contact wafers slightly, and reassembling in a different order.

Here's a thread with the details: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=126&p=302

[Mike_K]

Thanks Mike,
I like your S/C encoder as it is. Nothing to improve from my side. Especially the option to also use a toggle switch for reeds rudder (although not used in the FT3A) is great, I will use it in a future project. Also I like the low voltage alert, which I use in almost all my replicas or conversions.
I am not using any timer, I hate the noise of the beeper except when alerting, but other people may need it.

Regarding the FT3A case, I spent quite a few hours on it and I am very pleased with the result, especially in the turquoise color it is looking very realistic. I tried to do an OS Pixie MK2, but the curved sides are still beyond my capabilities.

Cheers
Frank

Hi Frank

Sorry for the delay in responding, I've been driving down to the French Alps for a weeks skiing in La Plagne, so I've not been checking emails or forums regularly.

Thanks for your feedback, it is helpful to know you got on OK with the encoder.

There are a few modifications/additions I plan for the encoder over the next few months, once I've got up-to-date with other projects.

The first addition I plan to make is a second ”reed” mode. With the current ”reed” mode, the push switch still activates the rudder in either sequential or compound mode and you have to blip the throttle. The second reed mode would have the push switch just change the throttle setting, which wouldn't then need to be blipped anymore, so a normal press would change the throttle setting.

Next I'm going to add a third ”reed” mode for Graupner Grundig Variophon 2/4 sets which have a progressive throttle (increase and decrease throttle push switches). There is an unused digital input (D2, next to a ground) that could be used for the second switch. The two switches would then work the throttle like a Graupner Servo-auto-matic 2 servo. And yes I have a Graupner Variophon 2/4 waiting for conversion!

The third addition will be for single channel proportional sets such as Mattel, Ace, Micron Elf etc. I've recently got a Mattel single channel propo set from the USA that will eventually get converted. The first problem is that there are no switches or controls for the throttle (for electric). To overcome this I plan that you hold the joystick full right for 3 seconds until it beeps, then full left within one second of full right to start the motor. There is already a motor run timer, so stopping the motor is already covered. And if a switch is available (such as a MacGregor 1+1), then that can be use to start and control the motor and if two switches with a progressive throttle, then like a Variophon 2/4 throttle.

There are 32 possible setup options and currently only 16 are being used, so it would be possible to configure it for all these options. And there is plenty of memory free to program it. I think these additions to the encoder would cover most single channel sets, with push buttons and/or switched or proportional joysticks. A type of universal single channel encoder.

Cheers

Mike

[tiptipflyer]

Sounds great Mike.
I flew quite some time in the last days with your encoder using a Tomboy and a Roaring 20 without any problems.
I am also using a converted Variophon 2/4 with two modes. It just has a trim button in addition to the stick and the two buttons on the front. If you switch it on, it has rudder on the stick and reeds throttle (like a servoautomatic) on the two buttons. If you hold the trim button on start up, it uses mode two for rudder on the stick, kick-up elevator on the lower button and sequential three position throttle on the upper button and you still have elevator up and down trim when pressing the trim-button together with the upper or lower button. Works great using an Attiny84 instead of an Arduino.
On my russian Pilot4 replica there are even three modes available. See here
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=105&start=14

Cheers
Frank

[Mike_K]

Hi Max

It's great to hear you're going to have a go at building a single channel set and programming the Arduino yourself, it is very rewarding when you get it working knowing it's all your own work.

I think Martin has kindly answered most of your questions, he's done a better job than I would have done.

I would second Martin's suggestion of a converted guitar switch for a single channel reed set, they do have a nice positive feel to them that many toggle switches lack. But if you want a standard toggle switch, you need a three position sprung to centre, often described as (on)-off-(on) with the brackets denoting sprung.

Cheers

Mike

[MaxZ]

But if you want a standard toggle switch, you need a three position sprung to centre, often described as (on)-off-(on) with the brackets denoting sprung.

Hi Mike,

Yes, I found that out too, but as I said, the Chinese are not very clear on that aspect. Farnell identifies them properly, and even allows you to filter on that operation mode. However, by the time I have got one sent over to The Netherlands it gets rather expensive.
I think I will experiment with two of those "tactile" PCB mounted push buttons first. How about pushing them both together inadvertently, is that going to be disastrous?

Cheers,
Max.

[Stewart]

Max,
If you search , momentary on-off-on switch you will find them :- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Heavy-Duty- ... Wlp3cNJbWQ
hope this helps
Stewart

[MaxZ]

Thanks Stewart, that helps. But most of the results seem to be rather hefty. Now as I see it that may be useful when flying a reeds unit, and getting rather ham fisted twiddling the levers in the heat of the moment, but on a S/C transmitter it is only required for programming purposes (??) and it will be the main push button that takes all of the abuse. So for the moment I will proceed with the little PCB mounted buttons I have lying around, and maybe I'll add some fancy lever to those.

Cheers,
Max.

PS: I see that the 3-position switch may also be used to operate the rudder in Reeds mode ....Hmmmmm.

[Spike S]

For 'Reed' operation, a consideration when choosing a switch other than the modified 'soft' guitar types is that prolonged operation with many (most) other centre-biased switches causes significant discomfort at the fingertips.