Mode Zero

Hi Phil
just a couple of questions re the GG encoder and thr Rx end setup.
I have read the script and layout document for the board and all seems fine, can I assume that stick and trim pot values are based on 5k ohm.
I have ordered a Rand replica from Tobe and that's on its way. Do I assume that the Rand&recoder plugs into channel 1 of the Rx and the incremental throttle servo goes into the next channel up.
Regards
Clive

Here a few hints concerning the installation and set up of the actuator GG-Tobe PnP
3 leads connector should be connected to the aileron and the single lead to elevator. After You have done it you might have to follow this set up:
The recoder design is such that all adjustments if required would be done at the transmitter using travel volume, in fact the best way to set it up is to program elevator and throttle to very low travel. Then, with the sticks at neutral and with the linkages made and the surfaces flapping (only slightly at this stage), increase the elevator throw to give a rapid oscillation and just a few degrees of rotary movement on 'down' and maybe 240 degrees of rotary movement on 'up'. Then rudder travel volume is increased so that at full 'up' elevator and full rudder, the Rand is just short of cycling - ie it shouldn't ever fully rotate. GG is by its very nature a compromise, so some adjustment for best effect will be necessary - always aiming for as much movement as possible whilst avoiding 'cycling' on full throws.
In most cases You don't have to do anything as the actuator should fully work out of the box but some radios.
The actuator current draw is in the range of 100mA depending on how smooth your linkage is. I would recommend a BEC set at 5,2 - 5.4 V for constant voltage as the GG Actuators are voltage sensitive. As voltage drops, the throws diminish which also calls for "up" trim inputs on the elevator.

The voltage range for the GG-Tobe is 4.8 V -6.0 v.

I wouldn't recommend to reverse elevator in the transmitter due of the design of the "Rands style actuator" thus a mechanical reversing is to prefer.
There are several reasons:
If the actuator stops working you would have full up instead of down
As per design the actuator have more up then down in its original configuration
Last but not least you would have down instead of up when giving rudder.


...there was a "school" to fly reversed as it was considered to get a more "proportional elevator " on "high pulse" but I personally would not recommend it!

In this case a small bellcrank would do the trick and it was quite common in the old days.

Thanks for the data,where can I plug in a throttle servo.
Clive

Regular throttle servo / speed control will do connected to the throttle port on the Rx

Which 3d printer are you using?
I'm working with one I built myself,its been a great help in the past. I find the 3d simplify software first class
Clive

Don't know if this will help, but the throttle servo is simply plugged in where it would normally go. This installation mimics how it was done with the Hallco radio system. They had everything on the receiver printed circuit board, even the actuator An ESC will also plug into the same place. Should work with electric power as well.
Of course, the Tobe actuator can be easily mounted like a propo-type servo using screws and hardwood or plywood mounting rails. System is installed in a Midwest "li'l Tri Squire", 40" wing span and a Cox Medallion .049 with an ACE R/C throttle ring.

Clive, it sure is a good question but I don't really know how to answer it...
I run 2 printers, a regular 200x200x200 based on RepRap Prusa and a large volume 310x310x350 which i call the Cube where both have been upgraded/modified so many times...try and error method to get to 2 machines I can relay on. Both machines have sturdy aluminum frames with the main parts machined or laser cut.
Software wise I run Cura on the PC and a modified Merlin on the controller and print almost only in ABS and from memory card. For long prints I have connected a UPS to minimize the risk from a power surge.

Hi Tobe
Can I assume that your joystick and rate trims are 5k. It doesn't say in the set up document for the control board.
Clive

Yes 5k or 10k its not critical as they are dividers, but no more than say 20k due to the input impedance of the analogue ports.
Cheers
Phil

Hi Phil
Many thanks, just stripped 4 pots from a pair of HB sticks. Doing a single stick Citizen-ship Tx.
Clive