Mode Zero

Great stuff, Brian!

Thanks Stuart -and thanks for the speedy dispatch of the Lemon modules.They are quality. I do wish that they would solder the header on for the PPM in though - that's been the trickiest thing that I've had to do in all of these conversions. A higher level of soldering finesse needed than my previous agricultural soldering "technique".

..more conversions = more practice

Get a strip-board and a few outdated components and just run the iron, it's not rocket science but needs practice and maybe a YouTube video or two

I used just one elevator half on a V tail sports model. Worked fine and simplified the tail end.

Shaun.

Snakes are in now Shaun and hoping that it will be loose enough to work smoothly- I've used these Sullivan lightweight cables before on a T-Tail glider and they worked fine there. This is the most complicated control run set up that I've done from scratch, as you know it's heavily swept back, high T tail with moderate dihedral, then there's the torque rod for the rudder - ideal This single channel stuff certainly keeps you on your toes.

Tobe - I'll get some stripboard and get some practice in, I'm sure that I'll get better with practice and as long as everything checks out safely on the bench and in a range check I'll count on it working okay in practice.

leccyflyer wrote: ↑07 Oct 2023, 09:49 Thanks Stuart -and thanks for the speedy dispatch of the Lemon modules.They are quality. I do wish that they would solder the header on for the PPM in though - that's been the trickiest thing that I've had to do in all of these conversions. A higher level of soldering finesse needed than my previous agricultural soldering "technique".

If it helps, I often dont bother with adding a bind plug as most of my Txs are dedicated to a model and receiver and once bound using the on board bind button, dont usually need rebinding.

Were you talking about the supplied 3 pin connector or the header board being factory soldered?

It's the supplied 3 pin connector Stuart - that was the trickiest job for someone who isn't used to fine electronics soldering - usually I'm just putting 4mm gold connectors on 12awg cable or soldering up piano wire undercarriages. On my first one I soldered the feed from the encoder directly onto the appropriate pads, rather than using the three pin connector. I haven't seen the need for a separate bind button - access to the inside of the Macgregors is so easy with the Dzus fasteners.

Brian, try fitting a servo plug over the pins and use a wooden clothes peg or similar to hold in place & use this as a jig to hold the header pins in place and use a fine tipped soldering iron and not the high wattage one that you would use on electrical power connectors with resin cored solder. Usually the solder will flow only onto the solder pads on the module board.
I normally hard wire onto the pads (tin the wires before inserting into the holes) and use a plug only at the encoder end.

leccyflyer wrote: ↑07 Oct 2023, 16:26 Snakes are in now Shaun and hoping that it will be loose enough to work smoothly-.....

Being from the land down under, I immediately thought of crawling venomous snakes - the snake season in my part of Oz having just started. My next door neighbour was working under his truck the other night when he realized he had brown crawling company . I have to be very careful moving building items stored on our block, now that house construction is again underway. Still, I wouldn't live anywhere else!!