Mode Zero

Thanks Neil, I'm watching it and we'll have to see how it goes but really I think three in a week is enough, particularly when the Orange DIY modules are STILL unobtainable. I know there are alternatives but I am more or less "locked into" DSM2/X and the DIY module does lead to neat and convenient conversions.

Paul

Phil_G wrote: ↑25 Apr 2019, 11:41 HK have Futaba-style Orange modules in stock Paul

Thanks Phil........ Yes, that would be an option but I'll leave it till the last minute before ordering to see if the DIY modules come in.

Carl wrote: ↑21 Apr 2019, 21:59

NeilMac wrote: ↑21 Apr 2019, 14:03 Sorcerer looking for a good home.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MODEL-GLIDER ... %7Ciid%3A1

Yes I saw that and put in a bid. Last year I got hold of a KK Chief built in 1968 in similar condition to do sympathetic repairs and this looks like another candidate. Plus I want a Soarcerer

Looks like I'm the new owner of the Soarcerer

Well done Carl.

I trust that the colour scheme will soon be changing.

NeilMac wrote: ↑27 Apr 2019, 20:55 Well done Carl.

I trust that the colour scheme will soon be changing.

As with the 1968 built KK Chief I'd acquired last year I'll try to keep as much of the original finish as possible. Once I have it I'll assess what I'll do. I have old tissue to recover the tailplane as that obviously needs doing. Shaun has given me tips on rejuvenating old tissued covering which I'll try first on the wings. With old models like this I'd like to keep the patina and keep them looking old. Hoping to tackle the KK Chief and the Sourcerer sometime this year.

Carl wrote: ↑27 Apr 2019, 23:26
....... With old models like this I'd like to keep the patina and keep them looking old......

Ah, so that's me then - too much patina & not enough tissue to go round (literally)

Carl, with the Soarcerer, you could recover with laminating film then tissue over the top, but you would lose the original tissue finish & appearance. Alternatively, if the tissue is sound, apply the laminating film over the top. I've done this with an old fuselage with reasonable success - kept the original appearance but improved the durability enormously.

Tack the film down around the framework with the iron then judiciously shrink/heat with a hot air gun while rubbing the film onto the underlying tissue with a soft cloth (or thick cotton garden gloves). Experiment on something "sacrificial" first!

Carl, my comment was made based on the colour scheme and the fact that the same seller has another glider in the same 'brown on brown' scheme.

I'm currently restoring a huge 3m scale model that has had a tough life of late, but when it returns to the sky it will be wearing the same colour scheme it had when it arrived, albeit with brand new film. I guess the cyclist / restorer in me knows that 'it is only original once', but at the same time, paint is just paint and it is the frame underneath that is the most vital thing.

I look forward in due course to seeing your Chief and Sourcerer.

I would agree with Wayne but definitely laminating film UNDER tissue. Personally I just don't like the look of shiny plastic film on vintage or retro models..... It just doesn't look "vintage"! But clear laminating film is virtually invisible under tissue and of course makes the tissue much more durable. I recovered my Monterey this way and it looks just the same as the original plain tissue covering though in this case I only used film on the open structure part of the wing and you can just see the edge of the film under the tissue. If I were to do it again I would film the entire wing before tissueing.
Paul

PaulJ wrote: ↑28 Apr 2019, 08:53 .... If I were to do it again I would film the entire wing before tissueing.

Paul

I did this with my Pushover wing and has proved incredibly durable. The only thing I've found though by going over the entire wing with mylar first is the tissue hasn't adhered well enough at the very edge of the trailing edge and lifted a little in a couple of places. So the next time I use this technique I'll leave a few mm so the tissue adheres to the wood on the edges. It may be because I use Eze-Dope. I will shortly be covering a new KK Gipsy I've built with electric power and RC and will see how it works out this time.

Wayne_H wrote: ↑28 Apr 2019, 02:49

Carl wrote: ↑27 Apr 2019, 23:26
....... With old models like this I'd like to keep the patina and keep them looking old......

.... if the tissue is sound, apply the laminating film over the top. I've done this with an old fuselage with reasonable success - kept the original appearance but improved the durability enormously.

Tack the film down around the framework with the iron then judiciously shrink/heat with a hot air gun while rubbing the film onto the underlying tissue with a soft cloth (or thick cotton garden gloves). Experiment on something "sacrificial" first!

Thanks for the tip Wayne