Mode Zero

For those of you familiar with some 3D-CAD here are .step and .x_t - STEP and Parasolid of the GG-Mini

I like ABS. Once you've tuned the parameters and used some sort of enclosure to keep the temperatures constant (like a cardboard box), you get consistent strong prints. Also, for printing airframes, it's considerably lighter than PLA or PET-G, and the parts can be welded together using acetone solvent to produce joints just as strong, or stronger, than the printed parts themselves. The finished ABS parts are also more heat resistant than PLA - PLA parts can go floppy when left in a hot environment such as a car in summer sun, or when used for motor mounts on models where the motors become moderately warm in use.

PLA parts glue together well with cyano, but PET-G is difficult to glue with ordinary adhesives: superglue and the polyurethane types (like Gorilla glue) work with PET-G, but the joints are a weak spot.

One big problem with ABS, unlike PET-G or PLA, is that the fumes given off while printing are medically harmful - you should really only print with ABS in a well-ventilated room, and keep away from it as much as possible while printing, and until the air has cleared afterwards.

The other problem with ABS is warped parts. You need a good hot printer bed, and some sort of enclosure around your printer to help eliminate the worst of the warping.

Thanks all for the helpful replies, I am on a learning curve with abs, so I tried PETG, which was a bit more forgiving, not perfect, but better than the abs failures!
Thanks for the new STL. files Tobe, I will spend the next few days trying all the permutations.
I will let you know how I get on.
George

I'm so glad to hear that I'm not the only one having trouble with ABS !!!
Paul