Mode Zero

Great Tobe
you are always a source of inspiration to me.

If it isn't on YouTube it doesn't exist!
Just wanted to share with you what I have been flying lately in my efforts to test...
In the old faithful "Junkie" you have 2 of my ProPo servos and one of my Rx with integrated nRF24L01 and everything is controlled by the MaxiPelle Tx.
Till now I haven't succeeded to fly it out of range before loosing eye contact either with the inverted F-antenna on the PCB or the version with a whisker.
On ground range test all versions have shown the same range within a few steps, fully comparable with the commercial nRF24L01 board I used to "Piggyback "

Old video deleted but new to come

Yes....the servos are missing screws

Good result.

Nice developments Tobe. I noticed you converted some Bantam Midget servos to your new servo amplifier.

I have a bunch of Novak Bantam Midget servos that are in need of new amplifiers as they are now over 40 tears old.
My main concern is with the ones I'm using in my Hobie Hawks. I have some new old stock Novak NE544 Bantam Midget servo amps but they are too twitchy for the old servo mechanics and so I would like to replace them with yours if possible. Let me know what I need to do . Thanks, Jay

...I would say that the only issue would be if they fit in the case! To what I can see probably 2 single Amp per case
The single Amp is 35/64 by 25/32 - 14,5 mm by 20,5 mm
The dual Amp is 45/64 by 1 17/64 - 18 mm x 31,5 mm
The boards need to be programmed accordingly to reflect original servo specs.

Tobe, my servos are identical inside to your Bantam Midget servos with your new amplifiers, so the specifications you used are what I need. The orange RS Systems two servo brick pictured above came originally with Bantam Midget mechanics and servo amplifiers, so your amplifiers should be a perfect fit/match for it.

I have included here drawings for two classic R/O, both the original and a "vector .pdf" of the different parts for those that have started to play with cheap chinese LED laser cutter. In the .pdf for the PageBoy there are 2 options of fuselage sides where one follow the original design R/O and a modified suitable if you like to add elevator.
On the Guided Mite I suggest to not use the original stabiliser which in a deep dive give so much lift that the model can't be recovered but if you like to see a single channel to bunt that's the way to go....don't ask why I know!

Following the "Kit making" a few chaps at the model flying club decided/showed interest in try R/O so I decided to make a suitable R/O brick....on nRF24L01 of course which will call for the making of a few nRF24L01 R/O Tx which actually are 3 ch. as they will have throttle and pulse rate for the Adams Clone actuator
The board has output for throttle and input for separate 5v in case not a ESC/BEC is used
The size is such that it fits nicely in a PageBoy and up

Brilliant.

Yet more inspiration from the "skunk workshop". Well done Tobe (again)