To save me repeating the info here we go:-
Scrap the original elevon mixing method and use 2 wing tip mounted servos
I would build the fus pod separately, not on the wing as described in the original article. This makes covering much easier unless you are using tissue and dope.
It should be possible to easily make the model from depron if you are a heathen.
Servos:- ideally metal geared. Analogue fine, 12mm thick means you won't have to make a blister to cover them in the wing. I used some MPX Tiny-S (HS81 HiTec)
Motor:- I used a 2205-2300 drone motor with a 5 x 4.5 - 3 bladed prop.
ESC:- 20A with bec.
Lipo:- 1250mAh 3S . Make sure this will fit in the fus, if not modify the formers to give extra width, height. Also mine just balanced without any additional lead. It wouldn't do any harm to lengthen the nose by an inch to give some leeway as my battery was fully forward.
Mine came out ready to fly inc lipo at 18ozs, and gave about 150watts on the meter. Original Cox babe bee powered model flew well. This was around 40-50 watts .
Make sure C of G is correct. Flying wings are not as tolerant if you are out.
Hopefully will be test flying this weekend.
Shaun
........ I made a wooden mould and formed the canopy by heat shrinking a plastic water bottle around it, only getting one good enough to use at the third attempt. I couldn't find a pilot of a suitable size but I wanted to get on with it so...... no pilot. 
